Louis Vuitton Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection
A year ago, in Avant les Temps, Nicolas Ghesquière staged the last fashion show as we knew them. Today he was back, but without an audience or the 200 backing vocalists who performed in the special setting designed by Es Devlin this season. But COVID restrictions aside, the creative director at Louis Vuitton has certainly done no harm in supporting gamers.
Ghesquière parade from the Denon wing of the Louvre, his models mingling with ancient Roman, Greek and Etruscan sculptures to the tunes of Daft Punk’s mega-hit “Around the World”. The notoriously hard-to-get duo agreed to loan the song for the show weeks ago, he said, before the split. He also guessed a collaboration with Italian design studio Fornasetti, and her famous hand-drawn faces of women from antiquity stood out in all manner of clothing and leather goods. It was a sight absolutely teeming with life, even though we were all watching from our laptop screens and smartphones.
That was the goal: “Since we are all in a still situation, we have to double our imaginations to invent an extraordinary journey,” said Ghesquière during a Zoom preview. This applies as much to the collection as to the production values that surround it. A year of lockdown has fueled designers’ decorative instincts, despite – or perhaps because of – the collective shift to sweatpants and other home wear. In anticipation of a re-emergence at the end of 2021, fashion has become absolutely outgoing.
Operating at high frequency, Ghesquière paid particular attention to silhouettes and surface treatments. Propelled by the notion of movement, he alternates jackets and cocooning capes on the one hand and elongated torsos punctuated by skirts that bubble around the knees on the other. Almost every look came with wedge heel boots with a loose, swaggering layout. Likewise, however, this collection was a showcase of the LV workshop’s craftsmanship: jewel-encrusted tunics peeked out beneath parkas and bomber jackets in contrasting colors, and simple ’60s dresses in the shape of an A-line or bag were intricately embroidered with graphic patterns. patterns and patterns. The last pair of gladiator dresses were canvases for Fornasetti’s designs of ancient statuary.
“I wanted something impactful, something that conveys hope and joy for what’s to come, and for people to have a good time watching,” said Ghesquière. “A moment of fashion. The video ends with the last model scrutinizing the Winged Victory of Samothrace, a Hellenistic sculpture dating from the 2nd century BC. with Jay Z., Victoire is a powerful symbol. Here and there Ghesquière showed off a sober pea coat, a quilted cape in a neutral shade of taupe gray, or a sturdy work jacket, but it was mostly leaves for gold lamé-type dresses underneath. This was a collection of Louis Vuitton trophy pieces for the coming-out parties that we expect after a year of suspended animation.